In the mid-80s, executive chef Kurt Spataro began reading Cuisines of Mexico, Diana Kennedy's authoritative tome about regional cuisine south of our border. When he learned that she offered culinary tours of these regions as well, he jumped at the chance to go. During the next few years he visited Oaxaca, Michoacán, Veracruz, Tampico, Hidalgo, Yucatán and Campeche. In each region he ate the food and cooked with the local ingredients alongside Kennedy. Then 20 years ago, the chef and his partner,…
